Below are the instructions for installing your new Ashawa Bay Hardware floor.


RADIANT IN-FLOOR HEATING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Ashawa Bay engineered floors are warranted for installation over radiant in-floor heating system. Our standard limited lifetime structural and finish warranty applies to installations over radiant in-floor heating systems.

Our floors are built to stand up to generations of use, and should age beautifully with minimal care. We pride ourselves in applying continuous and rigorous quality control and back our floors with a lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects and on the pre-finished with a 25 year finish warranty in residential applications and a 5 year finish warranty in commercial applications. Please see our full warranty for complete details.

As with any flooring installation, care is advised in radiant in-floor heat applications due to the potential for overheating of the in-floor heat system. It is also very important that the heat be increased gradually to avoid shocking the floor.

Caution is advised when installing exotic species such as Jatoba, Santos Mahogany, Ipe etc over radiant heat as they may show some face checking and other veneer defects after exposure to the radiant heat. Exotic species, which are defined as species not indigenous to North America, are covered under Ashawa Bay structural warranty when used over radiant in-floor heat, however, these exotic species floors are not warranted against face checking, splitting, cupping, delamination or other defect of the face veneer when installed over radiant in-floor heat.

For Radiant In-Floor Heat Applications, installation/operation must meet or exceed the following requirements:

  1. Prior to installation, the heating system should be operated at 60% of maximum output for at least 2 weeks for complete moisture stabilization. About 3 days prior to installation, reduce the heating system to a suitable temperature of about 18 C or 64 F.
  2. About 2 days after installation, gradually over a period of 10 days increase the temperature to comfortable operating level.
  3. During the operation of the in-floor heat system, the temperature of the floor MUST NOT EXCEED 81 degrees F / 27 degrees C. Exceeding this temperature will void your floor’s warranty.
  4. As with any wood floor, the floor will perform best if humidity is maintained between 35%-55%. Use a humidification system as needed.

Please refer to the NWFA flooring installation guidelines for complete best practices to ensure your Ashawa Bay engineered floor will give a lifetime of use.

GLUE DOWN APPLICATION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

PRIOR TO INSTALLATION:

Inspect all materials carefully before installation. Warranties do not cover materials with visible defects once they are installed. It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to determine if the jobsite conditions are environmentally acceptable and that the sub-floor system is acceptable for the installation of wood flooring. Ashawa Bay Hardwood Floors declines any responsibility for wood floor failures or problems associated with or resulting from sub-floor/sub-surface structural or environmental deficiencies or jobsite damage after the hardwood flooring has been installed.

The following instructions comply with all recommendations as outlined in Installation Guidelines and Methods published by the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA). For additional information contact NWFA at www.NWFA.org.

NOTE: Ashawa Bay Hardwood Floors recommends the following premium flooring Adhesives or equivalent:
* Bostik’s Best Urethane Wood Flooring Adhesive
* Franklin Titebond 811 Advantage Urethane Wood Flooring Adhesive
* DriTac • Easy Spread 7400 Moisture Cure Urethane Wood Flooring

I. SITE CONDITIONS:

Wood is hydroscopic and will absorb or expel moisture based on environmental conditions. Gain and loss of moisture corresponds with an increase or decrease in size and occasional warping. Ashawa Bay Flooring is 100% hardwood and is more dimensionally stable due to the multi-ply
construction but it is not immune to these dimensional changes. For the best results we recommend that Ashawa Bay Flooring be stored in the controlled environment in which it will be installed for 5-7 days prior to installation.

A. The building should be closed in with all outside doors and windows in place. The wall coverings should be in place and the painting completed except for the final coat on the base molding. If possible, delay installation of base molding until flooring installation is complete. All concrete, masonry, framing members, drywall, paint and other “wet” work should be thoroughly dry. Basements and crawl spaces must be dry and well ventilated.

B. Surface drainage should direct water away from the building.

C. Crawl spaces must be a minimum of 18” (46 cm) from the ground to underside of joists. A ground cover of 6-20 mil black polyethylene film should be installed as a vapor barrier with joints lapped and sealed with moisture resistant tape. The crawl space should have perimeter venting equal to a minimum of 1.5 square feet per 100 square feet of the crawl space and allowing for cross ventilation. Note: Local building codes may differ.

D. Ashawa Bay Flooring may be installed below, on or above grade level. Ashawa Bay Flooring is not recommended for applications in areas where excessive humidity is present such as full baths, hot tub enclosures or wine cellars.

E. Permanent air conditioning and heating systems should be in place and operational. The installation site should have a consistent room temperature of 60-80°F (16-27°C) and humidity of 35-55% for 14 days prior, during and after installation.

F. Radiant Heat Applications must meet or exceed all of the requirements in section II and:

  1. Before installation: The heating system should then be run at 2/3 of maximum output for a minimum of 2 weeks to allow any remaining moisture to evaporate, attaining its final moisture content without causing damage. Three or four days before installation, the heating system must be reduced to a suitable temperature (about 18c/64f).
  2. After Installation: Approximately 2 days after installation is complete, gradually (over a period of 1 week) raise the temperature of the heating system to its desired operating level.
  3. Life Cycle: Surface Temperature of flooring should never exceed 81 degrees F/27 degrees C. Exceeding this temperature will void any related warranty by the flooring manufacturer. Most under-floor heating systems DO NOT have a humidification system. Add humidification as necessary to maintain humidity levels between 35-55%.

II. SUB-FLOOR REQUIREMENTS:

The following minimum standards must be met before beginning the application of any Ashawa Bay Flooring products. The sub-floor must meet the following minimum requirements. See additional requirements specific to the installation method.

A. LEVEL/FLAT – within 3/16” in 10’ and/or 1/8” in 6’.

B. CLEAN – Free of debris, loose materials or materials that may release with age such as paint and drywall materials.

C. DRY – Check and document moisture content of the sub-floor using the appropriate moisture test. Concrete sub-floors must be a minimum of 30 days old before testing begins. Concrete must not exceed 4.5 using a Tramex Moisture Encounter meter. Calcium Chloride test results should not exceed 3# 24hr/1000 ft2. Wood sub-floors must not exceed 12% and there must be no more than 4% difference between the Ashawa Bay Flooring and the wood sub-flooring material.

D. STRUCTURALLY SOUND – The attachment methods used for the installation of Ashawa Bay Flooring ARE NOT designed to stiffen existing sub-floors. If the sub-floor has excessive deflection before installation of the flooring it is unlikely to improve with the addition of Ashawa Bay Flooring. Excessive deflection may cause premature finish wear and the floor to become noisy with age.

  1. Wood sub-floors: Wood panels should have an adequate fastening pattern, glued and screwed or nailed as system requires using the acceptable fastener and pattern. Typical: 6” (15 cm) along
    bearing edges and 12” (31 cm) along intermediate supports. Flatten any swollen or raised edges as necessary by sanding or scraping. Nail or screw any areas that are loose or squeak. Replace any water damaged swollen or delaminated sub-flooring or underlayment. Best results occur when the sub-floor has a minimum thickness of 3/4”.
  2. Concrete sub-floors: Concrete must have a minimum compressive strength of 3000 PSI. The concrete must be free from sealers, waxes, oil, paint, drywall compound, etc. that will interfere with adhesive bonding. Do not attempt to glue a wood floor over a chalky or soft concrete slab.

III. GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION of Ashawa Bay Flooring:

Ashawa Bay Flooring can be installed over most structurally sound sub-floors or existing permanently bonded flooring materials. Wood, concrete, sheet vinyl, vinyl tile, ceramic, are all acceptable sub-floors provided they meet the standards outlined in section II.

A. PREPARATION AND LAYOUT:
1. Inspect all door casings and wall molding. Where necessary cut the moldings to allow the wood flooring to slide beneath them. This can be done with a jamb saw or by placing a piece of flooring (face down) next to the molding. Using a carpenter’s saw laying flat on the flooring saw through the casing. Remove the waste material and sweep away all debris.

2. Plan the layout for the best visual appearance of the finished wood floor. Measurements must be made to allow for the width of the flooring plus 1/2” expansion space and must allow for the width of the tongue.

3. Place a mark approximately 18” from the corners of the starting wall and the width of the flooring plus 5/8” to allow for expansion and the tongue. Example: When installing 3” flooring place the mark approximately 18” from each end wall and 3-5/8” from the starting wall. Strike a chalk line through these two points the length of the room to the end walls. This line is the WORKING LINE.

B. INSTALLATION:
1. Measure the distance between the WORKING LINE and the wall the full length of the starting wall. If the wall is badly out of line (crooked), it may be necessary to rip boards to the follow the irregularity in the wall.

2. Using no adhesive install a sacrificial row on the INSIDE edge (closest to the wall) of the chalk line. This row may be of any straight wood material or the narrowest width of flooring. Install with the groove side facing the line (tongue towards wall). Make certain each of the sacrificial boards is in perfect alignment with the WORKING LINE. When satisfied, attach the board to the sub-floor using finish nails or concrete nails. This sacrificial row is to minimize movement of the flooring during installation and will be removed once the floor installation is complete.

3. Read the label on the adhesive container. Using the trowel recommended by the adhesive supplier spread an area that can be covered with wood within the working time of the adhesive (as noted on pail), generally 30-45 minutes. An average spread is an area 14-25” deep and the length of the room.

4. Install the first board making certain that the TONGUE side is tight against the sacrificial board. Installation can be from the left or right.

5. Insert the end of the next board into the adjoining tongue or groove and force the board tightly against the sacrificial board and the end of the adjoining first board.

6. After three or more boards have been installed in the first row installation of the second row can began.

7. Select a board for the second row that will allow at least 6” of difference between it and the length of the board in the first row. Continue installing in this manner until three or more boards have been installed. Continue adding rows, extending each as necessary until all of the adhesive has been covered. Avoid close alignment of joints in all rows throughout the installation, always attempting to get the maximum spacing available with a minimum of 6”. Avoid
alignment of joints in opposite rows, which may create an “H” pattern in the floor.

8. Cut to length a board that fits at the end of each row always allowing for 1/2″ expansion space at the wall. TIP: Do not cut short boards to finish a row. The leftover materials will be used for future starter boards. Short lengths cannot be used and will become waste.

9. Once the first section has been completed inspect it closely, tightening all end and side gaps as necessary. Clean all adhesive from the surface immediately. DO NOT wait to clean the surface until completion of the job, as the adhesive may not be removable. If necessary use blue painter’s tape to hold the joints tightly together until the adhesive cures if necessary. DO NOT use masking tape as the adhesive residue may affect the factory finish or bond of the finish if the materials are unfinished.

10. Spread a new working area and proceed as above. Use the cut ends of the boards from the previous section as starter boards when possible. Avoid lengths shorter than 4” as they are hard to keep in alignment and are easily displaced. Continue in this manner until all rows are complete.

11. Measure the final row. Rip the boards (parallel cut) to fit the final wall allowing for ½” expansion. Use blue painter’s tape to hold the final row in place.

12. Remove the sacrificial row being careful to not damage the adjoining boards. If 1/2″ expansion is not available because of a bow in the wall rip the boards to allow the required spacing. Apply adhesive to the back of each board and gently press in place. Pull the boards tightly to the previously installed row and hold in place with blue painter’s tape.

C. COMPLETING THE JOB:
1. Remove all tape from the floor starting from the area in which the wood was first applied. Inspect for gaps, chips and adhesive residue while removing the tape. Remove all adhesive residue, touch up chipped areas and fill with the appropriate filler as necessary. Use colored latex filler for factory finished products and a stainable filler if the floor is to be sanded and finished.

2. Install/reinstall all moldings and clean the floor with the appropriate cleaner. Use a premium quality cleaner for urethane wood floors if the product is factory finished or the compatible cleaner (if required) if the floor is to be sanded and/or finished.

3. If required by the adhesive manufacturer roll the floor with the appropriate weight roller.

4. First use of the floor varies from one adhesive manufacturer to another. Generally the floor can have light foot traffic after the adhesive has cured for 18-24 hours with furniture being LIFTED into place after 24 hours.

5. If the flooring is UNFINISHED adequate curing time MUST be allowed prior to finishing of the floor. If the adhesive is a urethane or solvent based adhesive 72 hours is usually an adequate amount of time to achieve full-cure. DO NOT attempt to finish the floor before the adhesive has had an adequate period of time to cure and dissipate all solvents or moisture as this will affect the final appearance and performance of the finish and floor.

STAPLE OR NAIL DOWN APPLICATION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

PRIOR TO INSTALLATION:

Inspect all materials carefully before installation. Warranties do not cover materials with visible defects once they are installed. It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to determine if the jobsite conditions are environmentally acceptable and that the sub-floor system is acceptable for the installation of wood flooring. Ashawa Bay Hardwood Floors declines any responsibility for wood floor failures or problems associated with or resulting from sub-floor/sub-surface structural or environmental deficiencies or jobsite damage after the hardwood flooring has been installed.

The following instructions comply with all recommendations as outlined in Installation Guidelines and Methods published by the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA). For additional information contact NWFA at www.NWFA.org.

NOTE: Ashawa Bay Hardwood Floors recommends the following fasteners and schedules for installing by staple or nail down application.
Staples: 3/8” or narrower crown x 1.25” – 1.5” fasteners, 1-3” from ends, every 3-4” intervals, installed at a 45 degree angle.
Nails: 6d finish nails, or 1.25”-1.5” cleats, 2 fasteners 1-3” from each end, every 4-6” intervals, installed at a 45 degree angle.

I. SITE CONDITIONS:

Wood is hydroscopic and will absorb or expel moisture based on environmental conditions. Gain and loss of moisture corresponds with an increase or decrease in size and occasional warping. Ashawa Bay Flooring is 100% hardwood and is more dimensionally stable due to the multi-ply construction but it is not immune to these dimensional changes. For the best results we recommend that Ashawa Bay Flooring be stored in the controlled environment in which it will be installed for 5-7 days prior to installation.

A. The building should be closed in with all outside doors and windows in place. The wall coverings should be in place and the painting completed except for the final coat on the base molding. If possible, delay installation of base molding until flooring installation is complete.

All concrete, masonry, framing members, drywall, paint and other “wet” work should be thoroughly dry. Basements and crawl spaces must be dry and well ventilated.

B. Surface drainage should direct water away from the building.

C. Crawl spaces must be a minimum of 18” (46 cm) from the ground to underside of joists. A ground cover of 6-20 mil black polyethylene film should be installed as a vapor barrier with joints lapped and sealed with moisture resistant tape. The crawl space should have perimeter venting equal to a minimum of 1.5 square feet per 100 square feet of the crawl space and allowing for cross ventilation. Note: Local building codes may differ.

D. Ashawa Bay Flooring may be installed below, on or above grade level. Ashawa Bay Flooring is not recommended for applications in areas where excessive humidity is present such as full baths, hot tub enclosures or wine cellars.

E. Permanent air conditioning and heating systems should be in place and operational. The installation site should have a consistent room temperature of 60-80°F (16-27C) and humidity of 35-55% for 14 days prior, during and after installation.

F. Radiant Heat Applications must meet or exceed all of the requirements in section II and:

  1. Before installation: The heating system should then be run at 2/3 of maximum output for a minimum of 2 weeks to allow any remaining moisture to evaporate, attaining its final moisture content without causing damage. Three or four days before installation, the heating system must be reduced to a suitable temperature (about 18c/64f).
  2. After Installation: Approximately 2 days after installation is complete, gradually (over a period of 1 week) raise the temperature of the heating system to its desired operating level.
  3. Life Cycle: Surface Temperature of flooring should never exceed 81 degrees F/27 degrees C. Exceeding this temperature will void any related warranty by the flooring manufacturer. Most under-floor heating systems DO NOT have a humidification system. Add humidification as necessary to maintain humidity levels between 35-55%.

II. SUB-FLOOR REQUIREMENTS:

The following minimum standards must be met before beginning the application of any Ashawa Bay Flooring products. The sub-floor must meet the following minimum requirements. See additional requirements specific to the installation method.

A. LEVEL/FLAT – within 3/16” in 10’ and/or 1/8” in 6’.

B. CLEAN – Free of debris, loose materials or materials that may release with age such as paint and dry wall materials.

C. DRY – Check and document moisture content of the sub-floor using the appropriate moisture test. Concrete sub-floors must be a minimum of 30 days old before testing begins. Concrete must not exceed 4.5 using a Tramex Moisture Encounter meter. Calcium Chloride test results should not exceed 3# 24hr/1000 ft2. Wood sub-floors must not exceed 12% and there must be no more than 4% difference between the Ashawa Bay Flooring and the wood sub-flooring material.

D. STRUCTURALLY SOUND – The attachment methods used for the installation of Ashawa Bay Flooring ARE NOT designed to stiffen existing sub-floors. If the sub-floor has excessive deflection before installation of the flooring it is unlikely to improve with the addition of Ashawa Bay Flooring. Excessive deflection may cause premature finish wear and the floor to become noisy with age.

  1. Wood sub-floors: Wood panels should have an adequate fastening pattern, glued and /screwed or nailed as system requires using the acceptable fastener and pattern. Typical: 6” (15 cm) along bearing edges and 12” (31 cm) along intermediate supports. Flatten any swollen or raised edges as necessary by sanding or scraping. Nail or screw any areas that are loose or squeak. Replace any water damaged swollen or delaminated sub-flooring or underlayment. Best results occur when the sub-floor has a minimum thickness of 3/4”.
  2. Concrete sub-floors: Concrete must have a minimum compressive strength of 3000 PSI. The concrete must be free from sealers, waxes, oil, paint, drywall compound, etc. that will interfere with adhesive bonding. Do not attempt to glue a wood floor over a chalky or soft concrete slab.

III. STAPLE/NAIL DOWN INSTALLATION of Ashawa Bay Flooring:

Ashawa Bay Flooring can be installed over most structurally sound sub-floors provided it is wood or wood composite board (plywood, OSB).

A. PREPARATION AND LAYOUT:

  1. Inspect all door casings and wall molding. Where necessary cut the moldings to allow the wood flooring to slide beneath them. This can be done with a jamb saw or by placing a piece of flooring (face down) next to the molding. Using a carpenter’s saw laying flat on the flooring saw through the casing. Remove the waste material and sweep away all debris.
  2. Plan the layout for the best visual appearance of the finished wood floor. Measurements must be made to allow for the width of the flooring plus 1/2” expansion space and must allow for the width of the tongue.
  3. Place a mark approximately 18” from the corners of the starting wall and the width of the flooring plus 5/8” to allow for expansion and the tongue. Example: When installing 3” flooring place the mark approximately 18” from each end wall and 3-5/8” from the starting wall. Strike a chalk line through these two points the length of the room to the end walls. This line is the WORKING LINE.

B. INSTALLATION:

  1. Measure the distance between the WORKING LINE and the wall the full length of the starting wall. If the wall is badly out of line (crooked) it may be necessary to rip boards to the follow the irregularity in the wall.
  2. Using face nailing install a sacrificial row on the INSIDE edge (closest to the wall) of the chalk line. This row may be of any straight wood material or the narrowest width of flooring. Install with the groove side facing the wall. Make certain each of the sacrificial boards is in perfect alignment with the WORKING LINE. When satisfied, attach the board to the sub-floor using finish nails or concrete nails. This sacrificial row is to minimize movement of the flooring during installation and will be removed once the floor installation is complete.
  3. Install the first board making certain that the groove side is tight against the sacrificial board. Installation can be from the left or right. “Blind” nail or staple using the recommended schedule and fastener.
  4. Insert the end of the next board into the adjoining tongue or groove and force the board tightly against the sacrificial board and the end of the adjoining first board and continue fastening per schedule.
  5. After three or more boards have been installed in the first row installation of the second row can began.
  6. Select a board for the second row that will allow at least 6” of difference between it and the length of the board in the first row. Continue installing in this manner until three or more boards have been installed. Continue adding rows, blind nailing the tongue side. Avoid close alignment of joints in all rows throughout the installation, always attempting to get the maximum spacing available with a minimum of 6”. Avoid alignment of joints in opposite rows, which may create an “H” pattern in the floor.
  7. Cut to length a board that fits at the end of each row always allowing for 1/2″ expansion space at the wall. TIP: Do not cut short boards to finish a row. The leftover materials will be used for future starter boards. Short lengths cannot be used and will become waste.
  8. Measure the final row. Rip the boards (parallel cut) to fit the final wall allowing for ½” expansion. Use finish nails through the face to secure the final row in place.
  9. Remove the sacrificial row being careful to not damage the adjoining boards. If 1/2″ expansion is not available because of a bow in the wall rip the boards to allow the required spacing. Using finish nails face nail the final row into place.

C. COMPLETING THE JOB:

  1. Inspect for gaps, chips and touch up or fill with the appropriate filler as necessary. Use colored latex filler for factory finished products and a stainable filler if the floor is to be sanded and finished.
  2. Install/reinstall all moldings and clean the floor with the appropriate cleaner.

FLOATING FLOOR APPLICATION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

PRIOR TO INSTALLATION:

Inspect all materials carefully before installation. Warranties do not cover materials with visible defects once they are installed. It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to determine if the jobsite conditions are environmentally acceptable and that the sub-floor system is acceptable for the installation of wood flooring. Ashawa Bay Hardwood Floors declines any responsibility for wood floor failures or problems associated with or resulting from sub-floor/sub-surface structural or environmental deficiencies or jobsite damage after the hardwood flooring has been installed.

The following instructions comply with all recommendations as outlined in Installation Guidelines and Methods published by the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA). For additional information contact NWFA at www.NWFA.org.

NOTE: Ashawa Bay Hardwood Floors recommends using a premium wood glue (PVA carpenters’ glue), such as Franklin Tite Bond II or equivalent, and a premium closed cell foam pad underlayment.

I. SITE CONDITIONS:

Wood is hydroscopic and will absorb or expel moisture based on environmental conditions. Gain and loss of moisture corresponds with an increase or decrease in size and occasional warping. Ashawa Bay Flooring is 100% hardwood and is more dimensionally stable due to the multi-ply construction but it is not immune to these dimensional changes. For the best results we recommend that Ashawa Bay Flooring be stored in the controlled environment in which it will be installed for 5-7 days prior to installation.

A. The building should be closed in with all outside doors and windows in place. The wall coverings should be in place and the painting completed except for the final coat on the base molding. If possible, delay installation of base molding until flooring installation is complete.
All concrete, masonry, framing members, drywall, paint and other “wet” work should be thoroughly dry. Basements and crawl spaces must be dry and well ventilated.

B. Surface drainage should direct water away from the building.

C. Crawl spaces must be a minimum of 18” (46 cm) from the ground to underside of joists. A ground cover of 6-20 mil black polyethylene film should be installed as a vapor barrier with joints lapped and sealed with moisture resistant tape. The crawl space should have perimeter venting equal to a minimum of 1.5 square feet per 100 square feet of the crawl space and allowing for cross ventilation. Note: Local building codes may differ.

D. Ashawa Bay Flooring may be installed below, on or above grade level. Ashawa Bay Flooring is not recommended for applications in areas where excessive humidity is present such as full baths, hot tub enclosures or wine cellars.

E. Permanent air conditioning and heating systems should be in place and operational. The installation site should have a consistent room temperature of 60-80°F (16-27C) and humidity of 35-55% for 14 days prior, during and after installation.

F. Radiant Heat Applications must meet or exceed all of the requirements in section II and:

  1. Before installation: The heating system should then be run at 2/3 of maximum output for a minimum of 2 weeks to allow any remaining moisture to evaporate, attaining its final moisture content without causing damage. Three or four days before installation, the heating system must be reduced to a suitable temperature (about 18c/64f).
  2. After Installation: Approximately 2 days after installation is complete, gradually (over a period of 1 week) raise the temperature of the heating system to its desired operating level.
  3. Life Cycle: Surface Temperature of flooring should never exceed 81 degrees F/27 degrees C. Exceeding this temperature will void any related warranty by the flooring manufacturer. Most under-floor heating systems DO NOT have a humidification system. Add humidification as necessary to maintain humidity levels between 35-55%.

II. SUB-FLOOR REQUIREMENTS:

The following minimum standards must be met before beginning the application of any Ashawa Bay Flooring products. The sub-floor must meet the following minimum requirements. See additional requirements specific to the installation method.

A. LEVEL/FLAT – within 3/16” in 10’ and/or 1/8” in 6’.

B. CLEAN – Free of debris, loose materials or materials that may release with age such as paint and dry wall materials.

C. DRY – Check and document moisture content of the sub-floor using the appropriate moisture test. Concrete sub-floors must be a minimum of 30 days old before testing begins.

D. STRUCTURALLY SOUND:

  1. Wood sub-floors: Wood panels should have an adequate fastening pattern, glued and /screwed or nailed as system requires using the acceptable fastener and pattern. Typical: 6” (15 cm) along bearing edges and 12” (31 cm) along intermediate supports. Flatten any raised edges as necessary by sanding or scraping. Nail or screw any areas that are loose or squeak. Replace any water damaged swollen or delaminated sub-flooring or underlayment. Best results occur when the sub-floor has a minimum thickness of ¾”.
  2. Concrete sub-floors: Remove all loose or broken concrete and fill/flatten as necessary using cementitious leveling materials of 3000 PSI or more. When installing over concrete a 6-mil poly vapor barrier must be installed prior to the underlayment pad. All joints should be lapped 6” and sealed with a moisture resistant tape.

III. FLOATING INSTALLATION OF ASHAWA BAY FLOORING:

Ashawa Bay Flooring can be installed over most structurally sound sub-floors or existing flooring materials. Wood, concrete, sheet vinyl, vinyl tile, ceramic, commercial carpet (use no underlayment) are all acceptable sub-floors provided they meet the standards outlined in section II.

NOTE: Avoid walking on the floor during installation as traffic may loosen or break glue joints.

A. PREPARATION AND LAYOUT:

  1. Inspect all door casings and wall molding. Where necessary cut the moldings to allow the wood flooring to slide beneath them. This can be done with a jamb saw or by placing a piece of flooring (face down) next to the molding. Using a carpenter’s saw laying flat on the flooring saw through the casing. Remove the waste material and sweep away all debris.
  2. Plan the layout for the best visual appearance of the finished wood floor. Measurements must be made to allow for the width of the flooring plus 1/2” expansion space and must allow for the width of the tongue.
  3. Measure across the room to identify how many ROWS of flooring will be needed. If the LAST row will require a cut board (rip) of less than 1-1/2” in width plan to adjust the floor by starting with a ripped board and account for the rip in the next measurement (step3).
  4. If the sub-floor is concrete install a 6-mil poly vapor barrier. All joints should be lapped 6” and taped with a moisture resistant tape. DO NOT install this vapor barrier over wood sub-floors.
  5. Install the underlayment parallel to the starting wall and in the same direction that the Ashawa Bay Flooring will be installed. Do not overlap joints. Underlayment should be cut flush with the walls. Tape all joints using a water resistant tape such as packing tape; allow no wrinkles. Tape the starting row to the floor to prevent movement.
  6. Place a mark approximately 18” from the edge of the end walls and the width of the Ashawa Bay Flooring plus 5/8” to allow for expansion and the tongue. Example: When installing 3” wide flooring place the mark approximately 18” from each end wall and 3-5/8” from the starting wall. Strike a chalk line through these two points the length of the room to the end walls on top of the underlayment. This line is the WORKING LINE.

B. INSTALLATION: Option: Install a sacrificial board the full length of the floor on the inside edge of the WORKING LINE to form a support for the balance of the flooring installation. Proceed to step 1 using wedges to hold the flooring in place on the ENDS.

  1. Select the longest boards available. Work from several cartons to maintain color uniformity. Lay the boards out the length of the room. Make certain that the first and final board in the row will be at least 12” in length. The last UNCUT board must allow at least 12” between the board end and the wall. If the board in the row will need to be cut less than 12” in length to complete the row adjust the board selection accordingly.
  2. Begin installation from the RIGHT corner with the tongue facing you and the long GROOVE facing the starting wall or sacrificial row. The short end groove should be facing the end wall. Align the first board with the WORKING LINE.
  3. Select the second board. Place a 1/8” continuous bead of glue in the inside bottom edge of the END groove. DO NOT apply glue to the long side groove at this time. Interlock the joint with the first board always maintaining alignment with the WORKING LINE. Remove any excess glue from the surface with a towel dampened in warm water. Use blue tape to temporarily hold the end joints together. Use wedges or waste material in the expansion gap on the side and end walls (ends only if sacrificial board was used) to maintain alignment with the WORKING LINE. Continue installing in this manner until the first row is complete.
  4. Measure and cut to length the final board in the row allowing 1/2” expansion between the end of the board and the end wall. Select a longer board for this cut, as the material left over will be used as a starter board later. Do not use short boards that would allow waste of 3” or less as this cannot be used later. Apply glue in the groove and install as above. Set the waste end aside for later use.
  5. Select a new set of materials just as in step 4. If the cut-off waste from the first row was 18” or longer it can be used as the first board in the row. Maintain a minimum of 6” spacing between the end joints of all rows.
  6. Place a continuous bead of glue along the inside bottom edge of the END groove and the same location on the side groove. Carefully align the tongue and grooves together and tighten the plank until all joints are snug. Remove any excess glue as before and temporarily hold the joints together using blue tape. Cut and install the final board in the row as in step 7.
  7. Continue in this manner until the first four rows are completed. This four-row area is the base for the balance of the floor installation. Perfect alignment is essential, as any variance will worsen as the flooring proceeds further into the room. Carefully inspect for proper alignment before the glue sets. Adjust as necessary.
  8. Continue with the installation as above. Best appearance occurs with a minimum of 6” spacing between joints in adjacent rows and avoiding a pattern in the floor. Try to avoid aligning joints closer than four rows apart as this may eventually create a pattern. Continue using tape to hold the joints together and wedges to hold the end joints in place. DO NOT walk on the finished floor during installation, as this will break the uncured glue joint. DO NOT roll the floor for the same reason.
  9. Finish the final row by cutting the boards to fit, always allowing 1/2” expansion space.
  10. If a sacrificial row was used remove it and replace with a row of materials that is properly edge glued as above.

C. COMPLETING THE JOB:

  1. Remove all tape from the floor starting from the area in which the wood was first applied. Inspect for gaps, chips and glue residue while removing the tape. Remove all glue residue, touch up chipped areas and fill with the appropriate filler as necessary. Use colored latex filler for factory finished products and stainable filler if the floor is to be sanded and finished.
  2. Install/reinstall all moldings and clean the floor with the appropriate cleaner. Use a premium quality cleaner for urethane wood floors if the product is factory finished or the compatible cleaner (if required) if the floor is to be sanded and/or finished.
  3. DO NOT ROLL THE FLOOR, as this will break all glue joints.
  4. First use of the floor varies from one glue manufacturer to another. Generally the floor can have light foot traffic after the glue has cured for 8-24 hours with furniture being LIFTED into place after 24 hours.
  5. If the flooring is UNFINISHED the glue must have a minimum of 24 hours curing time prior to finishing of the floor. DO NOT attempt to finish the floor before the glue had an adequate period of time to cure as the weight of finishing equipment may break the glue joints.